Filter Types

Lens filters screw onto the front of a lens (or slot into a holder) and modify the light before it reaches the sensor. Fujifilm lenses use standard filter threads, so any brand of filter works.

CPL (circular polarizer): Reduces reflections from water and glass, deepens blue skies, and increases color saturation. Essential for landscape photography. Rotate the filter ring to control the effect. Costs about 1 stop of light.

ND (neutral density): A dark filter that reduces light evenly, allowing longer exposures in bright conditions. Common strengths are ND8 (3 stops), ND64 (6 stops), and ND1000 (10 stops). Used for smooth water, motion blur in daylight, and shooting wide open in bright sun.

GND (graduated neutral density): Dark on top, clear on bottom, with a gradual transition. Balances a bright sky against a darker foreground in a single exposure. Available in soft-edge (gradual transition) and hard-edge (sharp line) versions. Most useful for seascapes and flat horizons.

Black mist (or pro-mist): A diffusion filter that softens highlights and reduces contrast, creating a cinematic or dreamy look. Popular for portrait and street photography. Strengths like 1/4 or 1/8 are subtle; 1/2 is more obvious.

Light pollution filter: Blocks specific wavelengths of artificial light (sodium vapor, LED). Used for nightscape and astrophotography in suburban areas (Bortle 5-6). Does not replace dark skies but improves contrast on the Milky Way.

UV and IR filters are less common in digital photography. UV filters are sometimes used as lens protection but can cause flare. IR filters block visible light for infrared photography, which requires camera conversion or very long exposures.